Unlike Liam Neeson, we do not have a "particular set of skills". If you've seen the movie Taken, you'll understand why I was terrified of visiting Albania without them. Petrified, honestly. I tried to convince Henri that we should avoid crossing paths with Marco from Tropoja at all costs.
I made a list of other reasons why we should stay in the comfort of Croatia and forget Albania. It wasn't effective, but I'll share it here for the interesting "facts" (that deteriorate into conjectures).
The U.S. Department of State recommends increased caution when traveling to Albania due to organized crime and law enforcement's limited ability to "assist and protect".
Albania has the highest road crash fatality rate of any country in Europe.
Albania was formerly known as "The North Korea" of Europe- no one in and no one out. Over 170,000 cement bunkers were built during this period for defense against the outside world-they were never used but instead just drained national resources.
The lack of traffic signals in cities frequently leads to accidents and subsequent fist fights.
Bears and grey wolves in the Albanian (aka Accursed) Alps are ready to eat unsuspecting Americans that couldn't travel with bear spray.
So Why Go to Albania?-the Counterargument
As Americans traveling through Europe, we have to abide by the rules of the Schengen Visa. I had never heard of it before we started planning our trip. We can only be in the Schengen Zone for 90 days of a 180-day period. This limits our destination choices significantly and forces us to travel places we wouldn't have otherwise.
We had initially planned on seeing Romania, but changed course because of the war in Ukraine. The Balkans are outside the Schengen Zone (Croatia will be joining in the next few years) and we had three months to explore. Both of us wanted to see Croatia. Beyond that, I didn't know much about the region.
Henri plans and researches exceptionally well. While I'm stuck in a rabbit hole of risk assessment and worry, he finds the adventure and the appeal of places I wouldn't ever consider. After digging through countless travel books and online resources, he announced that we "had to see" Albania (particularly the village of Theth) for the following reasons:
The hiking is some of the best in Europe and still completely wild, especially the legendary Theth-Valbone hike.
There is something for everyone—mountains (Accursed Alps), beaches (Albanian Riviera), and cities.
It's cheap—one of the cheapest countries, if not the cheapest in Europe.
Tourism is still rare making it an exciting and unique destination.
All our research reassured us that it is very safe and hospitable country, even/especially with kids.
I used to be very adventurous (and becoming more again everyday)—that part of me capitulated and we made arrangements to visit Theth for one week.
Is it a Sign or a Hurdle?
A few weeks before our arrival in Theth, our guesthouse cancelled because they were starting a construction project. I was secretly doing a happy dance while I feigned disappointment for Henri's sake. The next day, he joyfully announced that he had found an alternative guesthouse. Ugh!
Then, the rental car company where we reserved our SUV (the roads are so bad you often need one) informed us that we couldn't drive the car to Albania because their insurance company didn't allow it! "It's a sign that we shouldn't go", I said. But Henri saw these "hurdles" only as tests of his perseverance to do something truly unforgettable. He found an alternate rental company and hired a front wheel drive car that looks like a red jelly bean. Ugh!
We're Doing This
As we came to the end of our month in Dubrovnik, I was getting more and more nervous about out upcoming road trip. I could tell Henri was too, but he was also excited.
I freaked out after researching the road to Theth and was on the verge of cancelling. Several websites and blogs wrote that it was the worst road ever. I was thrilled when I read a more recent article that announced a new road to Theth had been completed in August 2021! And Henri found us accommodations in a guesthouse with a family. I felt that their input and advice would make the whole trip, especially the hiking, safer. Maybe this wasn't going to be so bad after all!
We mapped our driving route and made a plan that would allow us to drive the road to Theth in the best possible conditions. It was a long trip from Dubrovnik, but we included a stop at the Ostrog Monastery in Montenegro to break it up.
Getting to Albania
I hate driving—everywhere, not just in Europe. I've never actually driven in Europe and I'm pretty sure Henri wouldn't want me to, especially because our little jelly bean is a manual. If I were to find myself stopped on a hill with a manual car, I would likely pull the emergency brake and just walk away. But I am very happy to "assist" him from the passenger seat;)
Our route took us East from Dubrovnik into Bosnia and Herzegovina. We'd driven this way before for a day trip to Trebinje, Bosnia and were comforted by the familiarity. The roads in Bosnia were much better than we expected. From there, we crossed into Montenegro. We had been to Kotor, a popular tourist destination near the coast. Driving there was easy. We didn't know what to expect in the interior of the country, but it was also smooth sailing.
We planned a stop at the Ostrog Monastery in Montenegro. It's a unique Serbian Orthodox monastery built into the mountainside and a pilgrimage site for multiple religious faiths (Islam, Catholicism, and Orthodox). The faithful walk the 3km mountainous path up in bare feet to deliver necessities to the monks. Then, they seek healing and prayer from St. Basil of Ostrog, whose remains still lay in one of the monastery's cave-churches where they've been for hundreds of years.
From the monastery, we continued South through Montenegro to Albania. By the time we entered Albania, we had crossed 6 borders. In the Balkans, you must go through passport control and customs for both the country you are leaving and the one you are entering. It is exhausting and stressful. Thankfully, we didn't have any issues, the lines were relatively short, and we were asked very few questions. Plus, we collected a ton of passport stamps!
We expected our entrance into Albania to feel different. Instead, it was just like driving in Bosnia, or Montenegro. We decided to head to Shkoder, the closest city, before turning East into the Accursed Alps. There aren't any grocery stores in Theth and we wanted to stock up on hiking supplies and food. Plus, we were looking forward to trying a traditional Albanian meal.
The City of Shkoder
Shkoder was mayhem. Driving in the city was a nightmare! There are no traffic signals, no rules, and no fear. The roads are packed with insane drivers, cyclists pedaling into traffic, and pedestrians walking recklessly into the road. I have never witnessed such disorganization! Cars in the inside lane of a roundabout will, without warning, suddenly make a right turn across multiple other "lanes".
Parking was just as bad. Cars double-park everywhere. Google maps was unreliable and navigated us the wrong way down a one way street and also down a pedestrian street! We found the first available parking spot and abandoned the car in favor of walking. Note Elsie's facial expression in the picture below. It says it all!
But Shkoder's restaurants were phenomenal. Fine dining establishments are excellent and extremely affordable. Many traditional restaurants highlight Albanian cuisine (more to come on that) and many have a strong Italian influence. We savored one of the best meals we've had in Europe, including appetizers, wine, pasta, steak, with impeccable service for less than $40.
After lunch we quickly tried to find a suitable grocery store—it wasn't easy. The markets in the city were small and unsatisfying. I'm sure it was selection error, but we weren't able to stock up like we were hoping. We were running out of time to get to Theth before dark and it was starting to rain, so we jumped in the car for the last and most challenging part of the drive.
The Drive to Theth
We were pleasantly surprised to see that the leaves in the mountains were at peak color change. In every direction, the scenery glowed red, orange, and yellow. The pictures just don't do it justice.
We were counting on this new road to Theth to make the mountainous drive possible in our jelly bean car. We were quickly disappointed. While the asphalt was brand new, the road was so narrow that it barely fit one car—a major issue for a two-way highway. Blind corners prevent you from seeing oncoming cars, and locals drive as if seeing isn't a necessary part of driving. Suddenly, we would come upon herds of sheep, donkeys, horses, and cows in the middle of the road.
Just when we thought it couldn't get worse, the weather turned foggy and the road starting climbing via hairpin turns to a high-mountain pass. The drive was surreal and terrifying. We passed very few other cars, but when we did it sometimes required swerving off the road. The two-hour drive from Shkoder felt like an eternity. I was so grateful to Henri for getting us there safely! I'm sure it was exhausting to drive in those conditions. While we fretted, the kids were unfazed, listening to Disney Hits and enjoying the excitement.
Village of Theth
The village of Theth is very small. It includes a Catholic church, one small ethnographic museum, and several guesthouses. The "main street" is a gravel road covered in potholes. There aren't any grocery stores, gas stations, or hotels and the only restaurants are associated with guesthouses.
Where to Stay in Theth
Guesthouses are the most common accommodations in Theth. There are several choices and many of them also have options for campers. The houses range from old and traditional family homes to brand-new modern villas and most can be booked online (through Booking.com).
After our original reservation cancelled, we reserved a room at the Molla Guest House. Three generations of their family host visitors in their grandfather's family home. It's a traditional home above the valley with unobstructed views towards the Valbona peak.
We had a private room and bathroom. Although a private bathroom is assumed in the U.S., this is a luxury in an Albanian guesthouse. The room was rustic and cozy. The family also lived in the house and cooked breakfast and dinner for us.
Staying with the Molla family was, by far, the best part of our week. Albanian hospitality is unmatched. The son, Rafael, helped us choose safe hikes and other outings. The family saw us off in the morning and were waiting for us when we came home. They cooked us our favorite foods and pinched the kids' cheeks. Although most of the family didn't speak English, we were very sad to leave all of them.
Albanian Food
Albanian food is fantastic. I don't think we've ever eaten as much as we did at the Molla House. They served us so much food and we didn't want to be rude!
Breakfast usually consisted of mountain tea, coffee, dense homemade bread, Albanian cheese (a hard cheese similar to feta), tomatoes and cucumbers, and pancakes. Local honey and homemade jams are always available. I'm pretty sure the milk was from the cow in the yard, and if I was going to use it in my tea, I wasn't going to think anymore about that.
For lunch and dinner, meat and potatoes are staples. Whole grilled fishes are also sometimes available. The meat is purchased from local farmers and the menu is based on what the family can get. Almost all meals include homemade french fries, tomatoes, and cucumbers. Vegetable soups are very common at the start of a meal. Dessert was a small piece of dense cake, like an olive oil cake or banana bread.
Wine in the Balkans have been exceptional and new to us. The region's wines aren't exported very frequently to the U.S., and we've been missing out. Most restaurants have a house wine that is cheap and delicious. Fruit based liquors are also very common. Plum and pear brandy is a local favorite, but you can also find blueberry, raspberry, and apricot.
We were often joined by this naughty and adorable cat during mealtime. He was unpredictable, sometimes snuggling and sometimes biting. The kids were terrified of him! Although he didn't belong to the Molla family, he loved to find his way into the house by any means necessary (including through the windows). He once got in our room and it took all four of us to chase him out. We finally threw a plastic bag in the hallway that he attacked while we slammed the door!
Hiking in Theth
We hiked 45 miles in 5 days in Theth and saw much of the valley; most hikes included steep climbs and incredible views. The kids were such troopers, but they struggled (not physically, but emotionally) at times. The cool weather helped as did the shock and encouragement of total strangers when they saw the kids on the hiking trails. Also, the clear streams and lakes with frigid water were huge motivators. For some reason, Henri and the kids loved swimming in the painfully cold water!
Most of the trails were fairly well marked and available on Alltrails (our favorite hiking app). Bridges are common throughout hikes and one of the scariest things about hiking in Albania. They are all so sketchy! Every time we had to cross one, I was holding my breath as we crossed one at a time.
We were worried about wildlife, but it is rarely an issue on the hikes we chose. They have enough foot traffic that animals avoid the area in favor of the countless other remote areas.
We hiked some variation of these 3 trails throughout the week.
Grunas Waterfall: This was meant to be our warmup hike in Theth. By the time we hiked to the waterfall and a nearby canyon, the hike ended up being 9 miles! Depending on where you start, it can be much shorter. The first part of the hike was down the road from the guesthouse, through the village, and past the church and tower. Our first day, the weather was terrible and we were hiking in the rain; the trail was basically empty. The waterfall was especially impressive with the wet conditions.
We came back to this waterfall later in the week when the weather was better. Ollie, Elsie, and Henri were determined to jump in before we left. It was so cold (outside and in the water), that other hikers were cheering when the kids dunked themselves!
Blue Eye Waterfall: This is a must-see waterfall for anyone visiting Theth. Many people hike to the Blue Eye from the village, which ends up being a 12-14 mile hike round trip. We weren't up for that distance, so we drove to a trailhead about 2 miles from the waterfall. If was an easy 45 minute hike up a rocky path to the Blue Eye. The views of the river along the way are spectacular. There were several other people on the path and there is even a cafe right next to the waterfall (only open during the peak hiking season).
You can swim in the Blue Eye, but even in midsummer, it is extremely cold. There are several other swimming spots along the river as well. Ollie and Henri tried a few which were all equally freezing and got very little direct sun. I was always happy to watch from the bank of the river and take photos!
Both kids had mishaps with bridges on this hike. Ollie was standing on a wooden platform at the edge of a bridge that gave way and he fell a few feet directly on his face. Elsie's leg went through a bridge slat bruising and scraping her lower leg. Thankfully both were fine overall. It was a good reminder of the different standards of safety and the need for greater vigilance.
Theth to Valbone: This is the hike we had our sights most set on, although we were slightly limited because of the kids. It's is a 12-mile section of the Peaks of the Balkans trail and is famous for its steep climb through forests, meadows, and rocky peaks. It's an ancient donkey path that was used to connect the Theth and Valbone valleys.
It's the hiker's choice if they start in Theth or Valbone, but there isn't a road connecting the two. Therefore, you have to stay overnight in your destination village and either hike back the next day or take a ferry/minibus back to Shkoder. The logistics of that didn't work for us, so we decided to take it as an out-and-back to the Valbone Pass/Peak and then back to Theth. From the guesthouse it was 10 miles, 3000 ft of elevation, and took 6 hours and 45 minutes.
This is one of the best hikes we've ever done. It's challenging, wild, and remote. We were intermittently nervous when we didn't see other hikers for long periods of time.
At one point, we were alone in the woods when we heard shouting behind us. A large group of men was hiking up the path behind us talking loudly and shouting. We felt anxious, especially when we saw that a few were wearing the symbol of an Albanian separatist group considered a terrorist organization by some! In the end, they stopped to chat with us, gave the kids a high-five, and wished us a great hike!
There is a cafe and water refilling station about a mile from the top, but I wouldn't count on it outside of the peak hiking season. We hiked this trail twice and the water was turned off the second time.
We saw wild horses and dogs (they're everywhere in Albania), but no other wildlife. The trail is fairly well marked although it can get a bit confusing in the woods. The path has loose rock on top and we all slipped and fell at least once going downhill.
The kids struggled a bit during the last steep climb to the top. Other hikers encouraged them and marveled that they were able to complete the trail at only 8-years old. With these positive thoughts, they were able to push through to the peak. The views from the top and the physical exertion required created a major sense of accomplishment.
Final Thoughts on Albania
We will never forget our week in Theth, especially the Molla family and their kind hospitality. When we left Theth and made it safely through the border to Montenegro, I admitted to Henri, "You were right!" His sense of adventure allowed our family to have the best week in a part of the world that few get to see.
Thanks for reading! Wishing you all a chance to do something that scares you and reminds you of your fortitude.
Love,
Steph