Game Of Thrones fans beware—I haven't watched a single episode. Based on the number of GOT stores and references in Dubrovnik, I'm missing a huge part of the city's recent history. (But, if a Dateline episode had taken place there, I would have us all covered).
Despite my naivety about the Red Keep, and the House of the Undying (I had to google some Game of Thrones settings), I feel well-equipped to write about Croatia. We spent almost 3 months there, and I wish it were sufficient to make me an honorary Croatian. Unfortunately, I picked up very little of the language, hate cevapi (a ubiquitous local meat dish), and fear the ocean—therefore, disqualifying me immediately. So I will continue to admire the kind and hard-working Croatians and their spectacularly beautiful country as an outsider.
Dubrovnik, Croatia (also known as the Pearl of the Adriatic) is one of the most popular Balkan destinations. We booked an AirBnB just outside the Old Town for one month. It was our first destination after returning from our unexpected trip to the US, and we were filled with nervous anticipation. Neither Henri or I had visited the Balkans before and we were worried that it would be very different than home (and we had gotten very used to home again). But we hoped our long-term stay would allow us to live like locals, similar to our time in Venice.
The primary reason that we chose Dubrovnik was because Croatia is outside the Schengen Zone (see my post about Albania and visa rules for Americans). Also, we were visiting in September and October when the sea is still warm enough for swimming but there are fewer cruise ships making port.
A First Look and A Forever Memory
Flying to Dubrovnik, renting a car, and driving up the coastal highway (D8) towards the Old Town was very easy. We didn't have any issues and special travel tips aren't necessary. We were shocked how similar it all felt to our time in Western Europe.
As we approached Dubrovnik for the first time, the road climbed and hugged the seaside cliffs. After a sharp curve to the right, we got our first breath-taking look at Dubrovnik far below. Just thinking about it gives me goose bumps. The white stone city, orange roofs, and fortifications jut into the brilliant blue water; a backdrop of the ocean studded with small green islands elevates the view even more. The anticipation of that view became one of my favorite parts of driving in Croatia. Add in a sunset and some U2 on the radio and I was sold on any road trip (which is saying something considering how much I hate driving).
Pearl of the Adriatic
It's a well-deserved nickname; Dubrovnik is enchanting. It's both beautiful and strong. Many buildings reflect Venetian influence and remind me of Italy, but the city wall completely alters the overall feeling. These fortifications were built between the 12th and 17th centuries and have never been breached. However, Dubrovnik was under siege for 8 months during the Homeland Wars in the early 1990's and suffered devastating damage from bombings. Charts throughout the city show the extent of the damage-most buildings were affected. The city rebuilt and now hosts of millions of tourists every year.
Getting Around
Entering the Old Town through the Pile or Ploce Gates feels surreal. St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, is there too in watchful protection of the city and its people. I found it comforting to see him in the alcoves of every prominent building in Dubrovnik.
A future Netflix series was shooting in town and the actors clad in chainmail storming the Ploce Gate gripped our attention (and kept us from entering like we had planned). We saw the same group in masquerade costumes a few days later filming a scene near Orlando's Column. Unfortunately, one of the actors' mask was so elaborate that he could barely see, causing him to trip and roll down the palace stairs! That debacle and the mundane process we observed in Venice while Jane Fonda, Diane Keaton, and Mary Steenburgen filmed a walking scene made me realize that being an actor is not all that glamorous.
But I digress. Dubrovnik is a city for walking, especially inside the walls where cars aren't allowed. It's quite small and most destinations can be easily reached on foot or by local bus. Parking is extremely limited as is public transportation to anywhere outside Dubrovnik. Trains are nonexistent. For that reason, we rented a car and made sure our AirBnB included parking.
Upon arriving at our apartment, we stared with disbelief at our garage. It looked more like a bedroom closet, bifold doors and all. The sunroof might be the only possible exit once the car was inside! Thankfully, our Tetris skills prevailed and we managed to get out of the car, with the baggage, and lock the car safely inside. We didn't realize until later how crucial and luxurious a Dubrovnik parking spot really is-completely changing our perspective on the insane process of entering and exiting the garage.
Must-See Dubrovnik Sites
Ok, here is the good stuff—all the fun and interesting sites in the city and nearby. I'm putting them in must-see order (according to my amateur and personal opinion).
City Wall Walk: The walls are the iconic symbol of Dubrovnik and this is one activity you really shouldn't miss. It's understandably popular and we arrived right when it opened at 8 A.M. There was a discount with our Dubrovnik Card (bought at one of the city's tourist offices earlier in our stay) and we paid the entrance fee at a booth right at the beginning of the walk. The crowds were light and the sun was shining, so we were very lucky. You can walk the entire wall in a counterclockwise direction. The views of the city, Lokrum Island, and the Adriatic are spectacular. It was completely safe, even with kids, and I will never forget it. I would've definitely taken another loop if it had been allowed!
Lokrum Island: In our family, Lokrum will forever be known as the island where Ollie was bitten by a peacock. If you know Ollie, you may imagine a scenario where it was provoked. In reality, we were all sitting on a rock eating a PB&J and the peacock just ran over and tried to sneak a taste. Instead, it got his finger. Peacocks cover the island and roam freely. It is just one amazing detail of the King's Island, a quick 10-minute boat ride from Dubrovnik.
Our first attempt at visiting was sabotaged by extremely high winds, but it was worth the wait. We hiked the well-marked island trails and swam in the "dead sea". I survived a near-miss when Henri almost knocked me down one of the steep hills. He turned with our hiking backpack and didn't see me next to him. (Doesn't that sound like the beginning of a Dateline Dubrovnik episode? Ironically, it was the life vests that I made him attach to the backpack that almost did me in).
We spent most of the day on Lokrum and I would've been happy to visit again. We never got the chance, but we were lucky enough to have a view of the island from our terrace. It's one of my favorites of the trip so far.
Dubrovnik Beaches: I don't really consider myself a beach person, but the clear blue water in Croatia is irresistible. I've never seen water so beautiful. The beaches are mostly stone, but the water is perfection. Visiting in the off-season allowed us to relax and enjoy uncrowded beaches while still swimming (the water was a bit chilly but doable). The downside was that some of the beach services (chairs, umbrellas, restaurants were closed or had limited hours). It didn't bother us. Trying out the many local beaches became some of our favorite days. There are a lot to choose from so I'll share our experiences.
Copacabana Beach: This was by far our favorite and the one we came back to most. The water was calm and very safe for swimming. There was plenty of space for us lay out our towels and watch the cruise ships pass. We saw fish and even a star fish in the shallow water. There were restaurants nearby even at this time of year.
Pasjaca Beach: It's a 30 minute drive from Dubrovnik and then a 10-15 minute hike from the parking lot, but totally worth it. It's secluded and gorgeous. I laid on the beach looking up at the massive overhanging sheer rock face above me, wondering how often there are rock slides, and then wondering what is wrong with my brain. I spent the rest of the time forcing myself to savor the view and the serenity.
Saint Jacob Beach: You can easily walk or kayak to this beach that is just South of the Old Town. It's less busy and has a beautiful view of Dubrovnik. We went early, descended the dozens of stairs to the beach, and then realized it was still in the shade and freezing. The water was calm and peaceful though. Once the sun hit us, we jumped in. We were told by some other American tourists that the beach restaurant was delicious and a great lunch stop.
Banje Beach: This was our "local" beach as the stairs down to it were right outside our apartment. We went there a few times and happily swam, but it was much busier than the others we visited. It's a great option if you want something in town and can get there early to secure a spot (or rent chairs and an umbrella). The water was clear and mostly calm.
Sunset Beach: Perfectly positioned to view (you guessed it!) the sunset, this is a popular beach. We only went once and left right away. It was crowded and the water was choppy and cloudy (which was unusual for Croatia). I think this was geared to a different crowd. People rent chairs for the day and enjoy drinks from the local bars. We headed straight to Copacabana Beach instead.
Srd Mountain: Just behind the walled city, Fort Imperial stands atop this low mountain. A cable car is the most common way to access the Fort and its panoramic views. For those who have more time and energy, there is also a hiking path. The kids were very disappointed (but shouldn't have been surprised) when we walked right past the cable car station a few blocks from our house to find the trailhead. It was a bit of a convoluted walk to get to the path, but it was worth it. The hike took us less than an hour and is essentially all switchbacks. It also features the Stations of the Cross which was a special experience.
Day Trips from Dubrovnik
Because we were there for weeks, we needed more than just the sites in Dubrovnik to keep us busy (it really is quite small). Henri researched and planned several amazing day trips from Dubrovnik. I'm hoping to write a separate blog with more details because it's just too much to include here. Here is the list of the places we visited while Dubrovnik was our home base. Of note, the drive to most of these places is along the coast and absolutely gorgeous. You can often see the sunset heading back into Dubrovnik and it is unforgettable.
Trsteno Arboretum, Croatia: About a 45 minute drive, you can visit this arboretum with beautiful views and a 15th century home (including an impressive aqueduct).
Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina: I was nervous about this day trip and it's a long drive from Dubrovnik. In the end, I was really glad we did it. Bosnia became one of our favorite countries. The food is amazing and cheap and the people are so kind. The buildings damaged by bombs or covered in bullet holes really left an impression on the kids. It was also our first chance to hear the beautiful call to prayer from the minarets.
Kravica Falls, Bosnia and Herzegovina: We combined this with our trip to Mostar. The falls were beautiful but the water was freezing! (or so I'm told...there was no way I was getting in)
Trebinje, Bosnia and Herzegovina: I cannot say enough good things about Bosnia. We took every opportunity to visit. Not much to see in Trebinje, but we had a knock-out Bosnian meal at this restaurant. My favorite part was seeing large groups of friends enjoying meals together and no one was looking at their phones!! Put your phone down!!
Ston, Croatia: Walking the wall in Ston was cool. It's one of the longest in Europe. Ston is known for their salt fields, which was why they needed the wall. Salt was once as valuable as gold!!
Lopud, Croatia: Despite the fact that we got here in a crappy boat instead of the pirate ship we initially planned (long story), I'm glad we came. Lopud is one of the Elaphiti Islands near Croatia and is known for its sandy beaches (which are rare in this area). The island has great hiking too.
Kotor, Montenegro (not really a day trip): This isn't really a day trip, but the 3 hour drive was scenic and worth it for our first experience with Montenegro. Kotor is a Venetian-influenced fortified city and we loved walking the city wall. We stayed overnight so we could experience more of the local food and sites. We will never forget friendly Francis, who let us eat in his backyard (with his prize donkey) while we were hiking. Also, Kotor wins worst museum of the trip with the cat museum! Congratulations!
Cavtat, Croatia: Cavtat is a short drive south of Dubrovnik. Buses are available as well. It's a charming seaside town with great food and a few interesting sites. We happened upon one of our favorite museums of the trip here-the Shell Museum. One of the owners of this collection (much of which she and her family obtained on their scuba diving excursions) gave us a personal tour. It was fascinating; we were so enthralled we forgot to take pictures! I did snap a few of Ollie with one of the thousands of cats that wander around Croatia. They are adorable and usually very well behaved (for stray animals).
Food and Drink
As you can imagine, seafood is king in Dubrovnik. The cuisine focuses on the treasures of the Adriatic Sea, much like Venice and other Italian cities. Black risotto, cuttlefish, and seafood stews are common. Typical Italian food, like pasta and pizza (and gelato!), grace every menu.
Many restaurants also feature grilled meats usually served with fries and vegetables. Specific dishes that we'd never had before included:
Cevapi: Also called cevapcici. It's ground meat shaped into sausages and grilled. You can find it everywhere.
Pasticada: Croatian beef stew
Peka: This delicious meat dish is "cooked under a bell". In many restaurants, you have to order it ahead of time (like the day before!) because it takes so much time to make.
Burek: This grab and go food is ubiquitous and includes filo dough filled with meat or cheese, almost like a spinach pie.
We thought Croatia would be much cheaper than it was. Dubrovnik's prices are equivalent to most of the big cities in Europe. Because of that, we mostly cooked at home. I would've loved to try more of the Old Town restaurants, but it just wasn't in our budget. But, we did have a few great dining experiences worth sharing.
Before I get to those, I have one other note about food in Dubrovnik. The grocery stores are awful. Most are very small and the produce often looked old. For me, it was one of the most disappointing things about the city, especially because we had to cook so much and because we were previously in Italy where the grocery stores (and especially fresh produce) are a dream. I think it's a reflection of the tourist nature of Dubrovnik. Most people aren't cooking.
Pizza Tabasco: Located outside the Old Town but close to the Ploce Gate, this was our favorite local restaurant. It's affordable and the pizza is delicious. The larger size pizza fed all four of us. I would recommend the Pizza Dubrovnik. The salty ham and spicy arugala is a great combo.
Taj Mahal: I have no idea why the local Bosnian restaurant is called "Taj Mahal", but it is. There are two locations and we ate at the one in the Old Town. The food is magnificent and high quality and the service was top notch. We had better and much cheaper food in Bosnia, though, which is a 25 minute drive away. In fact, we took every opportunity to drive to Bosnia for meals.
Konoba Dubrava: We would've eaten here multiple times if it wasn't so hard to get to. Driving to this restaurant perched high atop the mountain behind Dubrovnik, requires braving a winding one-lane road. It felt so scary at the time but I imagine it would've been nothing after driving in Albania. Upon sitting down, the waiter gave Henri and I two shots of cherry liquor. We asked if it was to settle our nerves from the drive up. The waiter replied, "Oh, no one drives up here. They all take the cable car to Mount Srd and walk." Ugh. Amateur mistake, but the food and atmosphere were absolutely worth it. We really wanted to try peka here (meat cooked under a bell), but you have to order it the day before. It seems unlikely that most tourists would be organized enough to make that happen. Thankfully, we had to the chance to eat it multiple times in Bosnia.
Konobo Jezuite: We first noticed this gem in the Old Town from above. While we were on the City Wall Walk, we spotted their incredible terrace right next to the city wall. We decided it would be our splurge meal and Henri made us a reservation. It was so expensive, but so good. The best part was the atmosphere. Our outdoor table surrounded by the city wall but also beautiful trees was magical. The restaurant thought of every detail including heat lamps and cozy blankets on the chilly night. We sampled local dishes and ate until we were completely stuffed. It was a wonderful memory and we adored being able to eat at such a nice place with the twins. They are getting so big.
Peppino's Gelato: Their signs state, "The Best Gelato in Dubrovnik. There, we've said it." And I completely agree. We tried other places and always came back to Peppino's. (When I say "try", I mean that Henri awkwardly sampled everywhere else's gelato and then never bought anything. It was so embarrassing, we stopped going into the shops with him.) The many steps down the hill from our apartment to Peppino's made me feel like we'd earned it. Until the symptoms of a nasty case of food poisoning started right after I ate their lemon cheesecake (and I became averse to it despite it not being the source), we were probably too frequently testing their slogan.
On a separate note about food poisoning. Henri and I both got it when we shared a burger that had a mayo-based sauce on it. We always avoid mayo in restaurants, but didn't realize it would be on the sandwich. Sure enough, it made us violently ill. Thankfully, the kids were ok, but they had to fend for and entertain themselves for two days. How they are still able to eat peanut butter and jelly is beyond me. And how they managed to smear both on every surface in the kitchen is also a mystery.
Final thoughts
I struggled to write this post. It's not unusual for me to find writing difficult. I love to write but it is a slow and tedious task for me. When reflecting on my procrastination, I realized that my feelings about Dubrovnik were partially responsible (as were Flu A and holiday craziness). I didn't feel effusive about the city.
As I finally write this months later, I remember so many of these moments fondly. But, Dubrovnik is a city that has lost some of its soul. Tourism is its life-blood and it has replaced everything else. We never found a corner of the Old Town where the locals gathered, and the crushing cruise crowds soured the days when the boats made port (I can't even imagine how busy it is in the summer). We are still glad we saw it and miss many things about it. But as we neared the end of our stay, we felt like it lacked something—like we never formed any meaningful connections.
On our very last day, when we were packing up the car, Henri went to the Biker's Cafe next door to get coffee. He went there every morning and ordered from the gruff and grumpy guy behind the bar. When Henri tried to pay, the guy told him it was free (he didn't know it was our last day). When Henri asked why, he replied, "You come here every day and I just want you to know I appreciate it." I couldn't imagine a better way to end our stay. We had successfully breached the city wall.
Thanks for reading! Wishing you all a moment that completely changes your perspective in the best possible way.
Love,
Steph