I feel like I've been miniaturized and placed in a Swiss train set. Grindelwald, Switzerland is breathtaking. Pictures don't do the beauty justice. The greenest grass leads up to jagged snow-covered peaks. Traditional Swiss houses dot the landscape, trains crisscross the hills, and cable cars zoom overhead. I feel safe here- between the many mountains cradling this valley.
Grindelwald is a hikers paradise. Hiking is our favorite family pastime. Besides hiking and biking, there isn't much else to do here until winter, when skiers dare the peaks. It's a quiet place and we've gotten used to it very quickly; maybe a little too quickly.
I'm afraid we've peaked too early in our trip. I could stay here forever!
I'm eager to share everything we have learned about Grindelwald. I'll post at the end of the month specifically about the epic hikes. There are just too many to include here and we have so many more to do. It will give you time to prepare for the overwhelmingly beautiful scenic photos, and for the story about how we were attacked by a herd of dairy cows.
A Proper Swiss Train Ride
Getting to Grindelwald from anywhere in Switzerland is easy thanks to the Swiss train system. The SBB app allows you to input the origin and destination of your trip and it provides several possible routes. No advanced planning is necessary and most people don't reserve seats. 1st and 2nd class are clearly marked and most trains have a bistro car.
Buying an individual ticket is simple and can be done on the app or at the train station. Passes are more complicated. They can save you money if you will travel by train several days in the month. Kids get a huge discount. Which pass to choose depends on individual plans.
We have a Swiss Flex Pass that allows us unlimited travel for 15 days in 30. It even includes the famous Glacier Express and Bernina Express. The passes give a discount on mountain transportation (gondolas, alpine trains, buses) but these routes are not free-and they are very expensive. Most hikes in Grindelwald require at least one type of alpine transportation. See more about Swiss Travel Passes here.
The kids had never been on a long distance train. They were so excited to take the train from Zurich to Grindelwald- until they realized that they couldn't "check" their backpacks and would have to carry them throughout the trip. In a rare Swiss mishap, our train was stuck on the tracks behind a broken train! The kids barely noticed as they played card games and constantly asked for snacks.
It's so easy to take the train anywhere in Switzerland. I love it! Unfortunately, we got off at the wrong stop in Grindelwald and were left with a 25 min walk from our apartment. Even from the closest station, our place is a 15 minute walk uphill which has definitely made us stronger; it can also be extremely annoying when you are carrying groceries. It was almost unbearable with all the luggage and complaining kids!
Grindelwald, the Village
The town is exactly how I pictured a village in the Swiss Alps. All the buildings are very traditional. Window boxes with colorful flowers display the residents' care. The main area of town has outdoor stores, ski shops, and gift shops. Most of the necessities are right in the village as well.
There are some accommodations in town, but they are mostly hotels and are extremely expensive. Homes spread both up and down the hill from the village. Every single one is in the traditional Swiss style- even if built recently.
In order to stay in our budget, we are not only down the hill from town. We are across the river and then up another hill. Buses travel throughout but they come surprisingly infrequently. Walking is most convenient but definitely not easy. We consider it a warm-up for our hikes.
Here are some pics from our initial walk to the apartment and the view from our balcony! Totally worth the effort.
Things to Do
In addition to enjoying the charming traditional village, outdoor sports are obviously the main draw to Grindelwald. Hiking, biking, hang-gliding, and rock-climbing attract people from all over the world.
I found the geography of Grindelwald and neighboring towns confusing. This whole area of the alps is called the Jungfrau Region, named after one of the peaks that looks down on Grindelwald.
The area is serviced by the Swiss rail and bus system, especially in the villages. Some of the buses travel high into the mountains. The alpine transportation here such as gondolas and alpine trains, are often a separate company and can be quite expensive.
The Jungfraujoch is the highest railway station in Europe and a Unesco World Heritage site. A state-of-the-art gondola called the Eiger Express or a traditional cog-wheel train delivers visitors to the origin of the rail line. Both are operated by the Top of Europe company. Again, it's expensive- more than $100/person! A full-price adult gondola ticket is $200!
Top of Europe also has many other peak routes and locations throughout the Jungfrau region including:
Grindelwald First
Harder Kulm
Schynige Platte
Each location is unique and easily accessible, but only through this company. Click here if you want to know more.
If you want to visit multiple, there are passes available specifically for the Top of Europe locations. There is a discount for Swiss Rail Pass holders, but they are totally separate passes. Confusing, isn't it? We didn't buy the Top of Europe passes because they are time-limited and not flexible. We just use our rail passes to get discounts on individual tickets.
You can also read more about the endless opportunities in the Jungfrau region here. Other scenic towns/cities include:
Interlaken
Murren
Wengen
Lauterbrunnen
The world-famous Eiger is the Jungfrau's neighbor and is one of the most notoriously difficult rock-climbing pursuits. Many have failed or died attempting its North face. It is pictured here on the right side of the photo.
We have a view of the North face from our back patio. I still marvel every morning at its strength. I also am in awe of the countless hang-gliders around the Eiger and neighboring peaks. Sometimes there are dozens. "Taxi-rides" are available where you can hang-glide in tandem with a professional. All I can say is: NO THANK YOU!
Daily Conveniences
It is crazy expensive in Switzerland- I can understand why now that I see how beautiful it is. Switzerland also has excellent schools, healthcare, and public transportation.
Since we wanted to spend a month here, we had to make some sacrifices. Our apartment is tiny! We visit the grocery store almost everyday because of the mini-sized fridge (the freezer is the size of a loaf of bread). The store closes at 6PM. Eating out is almost impossible because of the prices, and take-out/delivery are rare.
These are all good learning experiences with the kids. They shop with us and are getting used to looking at prices. We must plan ahead. Carrying home a bag of food is now the expectation. Thankfully, their favorite playground is just outside the grocery store and is the perfect bribe;)
Environmental Awareness
Being green is a part of daily life here. I think some of it is driven by cost (gas, parking, comparable public transportation) but also by the beautiful landscapes at their fingertips. Maybe it's just embracing the greater good. Whatever the reason, I am so thankful for the opportunity to make positive changes and for the twins to have more social awareness.
Cars are smaller and much more fuel efficient. Driving has added costs that we would never consider in the US. For example, just to drive to the curb of the Zurich airport to pick us up with the rental car, Henri had to pay $5. We wondered why there were so few cars and everyone was heading for the train!
Recycling is universal and minimizing trash is prioritized. Trash bags are expensive and taxed! Like cigarettes, you must request to purchase them from cashier at the grocery store.
Reusable shopping bags are essential. Plastic bags are available at the store for a cost-asking for the price can illicit a grumpy response (like REALLY? you didn't bring your own bag?-typical American).
The one thing I find discordant with this philosophy is the water situation. Plastic water bottles are ubiquitous! If you want water with a meal, you must pay for a bottle. Tap water is rarely available and I can't imagine it is related to drinkability. In the alps, you will find water bottle filling areas (usually a random tap on the side of a guesthouse) but they don't exist in the village.
Reality Check
As I write this, we are all stuck in the apartment with COVID. We rely constantly on public transportation, and it can often be busy. It felt inevitable that we would eventually get it. Thank God, no one is seriously ill but it has really taken the wind out of our sails. Mostly, we regret everyday that we are missing out on exploring this wonderful place.
As much as I love it here, being sick has made me feel a tad HOMEsick. I would give anything for an ice-cold drink, air-conditioning, restaurant delivery, and nearby friends and family right now. On the other hand, recovering while looking over the Eiger and the Jungfrau isn't bad either, and being out of our element has definitely been good for us. I have nothing to complain about and endless things for which I am grateful.
I can't wait to share more about how we have been spending most of our time in Switzerland-on the Wanderwegs (hiking trails). It has far surpassed any other hiking we've done. Stay tuned!
Thanks for reading! Wishing everyone health and happiness!
Best,
Steph