Where are you headed? It's a question one might find on an inspirational poster (undoubtedly above a picture of a tree-lined path). It's one I've considered a lot recently because of the time and mental space that traveling allows.
It's also something I asked myself on the steep uphill hike to the Faulhorn Berghotel; not asked existentially but more practically-like "where ARE you headed?!"
The Faulhorn was our ultimate Swiss hiking goal and we made it! Visiting a Berghotel was something we will never forget. If you are an avid hiker and this isn't on your bucket list, add it immediately!
What is a Berghotel?
I didn't know until recently. "Berg" is the German word for mountain, so a Berghotel is obviously a mountain inn or guesthouse. These are accommodations that can only be reached by hiking. They are all over the Swiss Alps and are an amazing way to enjoy unmatched views and Swiss tradition. You can stay overnight or just stop for a meal mid-hike.
Previously, I thought that if you wanted to stay overnight while hiking it meant packing all your gear and camping. I had no idea that these welcoming overnight accommodations existed until a friend told me about his experience in an Italian mountain hut (a refugio). Intrigued, I shared the story with Henri (who was absolutely on board with trying it ourselves).
We are so lucky to have friends and family in many of the places we are visiting. Not only do we get to expose our children to new cultures and traditions but also to our established connections with these incredible people. It has been a joy to watch them form their own friendships and for us to strengthen these bonds. Our adventurous and dear Swiss friends and their 4 children suggested that we make the Berghotel experience a reality. It is something we will remember forever, mostly because we did it with them.
The Faulhorn
The Faulhorn Berghotel is one of the oldest mountain hotels in Europe and is at 2681 meters elevation. It opened in 1830 and the owners are 4th generation in this family business. It's hard enough to get there in 2022, I cannot imagine what it was like to construct it in the early 19th century!
It is perched on top of the Faulhorn peak in the Bernese Oberland (near the town of Grindelwald). It is called "Faulhorn", because of the "foul" or crumbly rock that makes up this "horn" or peak. The rock is black limestone shale that easily separates and crumbles. The peak has 360 degree views that stretch all the way to Germany.
Getting there
There is no short cut-you have to hike (unless you are supplies for the hotel, then you get a helicopter ride-seriously). The Faulhorn can be reached from Schynige Platte or Grindelwald First Gondola. Most people start at one location, hike to the Faulhorn, and then continue on to the other. This is a long and challenging hike that requires great physical fitness and hiking experience. The total distance is 10 miles with over 2500 ft of elevation gain. We decided to shorten the hike and stay at the hotel.
Schynige Platte to Faulhorn versus Grindelwald First to Faulhorn
Starting in Schynige Platte: To get to the trailhead at Schynige Platte requires a 45 minute cogwheel train ride. It's a beautiful ride but adds quite a bit of time to the overall plan for the day. Make sure you check the schedule because the train doesn't leave very often. The hike from Schynige Platte to the Faulhorn is about 2 miles longer than from First but the elevation gain occurs more gradually. The total distance is 6 miles and it is a challenging hike. This route provides gorgeous views of the major Jungfrau region's peaks (Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau).
Starting at Grindelwald First: Grindelwald First is a gondola that takes you high up on the peak above the town. At the top of the gondola, there are several unique attractions: a cliff walk and the Grindelwald glider and flyer (basically ziplines that can be done individually or in a group flying together). The gondola is only a 25 minute ride and there wasn't a line the day we went. It's a quick and easy way to get to the trailhead.
The walk to the Faulhorn is only about 4-5 miles from First but it is a very challenging hike. Thankfully, it starts off gently and has the added benefit of Bachalpsee. This alpine lake is pristine and magnetizing. We stopped here for lunch and some of us swam (more like a polar bear plunge). The kids loved it! They found frogs and fish, and played in the water. I cannot think of a better place for a picnic.
This alone is a worthwhile hike and a popular one for the visitors to Grindelwald First. We went on a Sunday and, as you can see, overcrowding is not an issue;)
The hike starts to get real after the lake. It's a steady uphill for miles to the Faulhorn. Parts are extremely steep and taxing. The path is well maintained but loose rock. It can definitely feel slippery at times.
There was still snow in late June but it was easy to avoid and we kept our feet dry.
You can't help but smile despite the hard work.
When you finally see the Faulhorn, it is still so far away. From this point, it took another 20-30 minutes for us to reach because of the steep incline.
Important note: There were no water filling stations on the hike. We had lots of full water bottles but planned on being able to refill (this was typical in our other hikes). We would've had more than enough for the hike if we hadn't spent so much time playing at the Bachalpsee. Also, the water at the Faulhorn isn’t potable either. Everything is bottled and EXPENSIVE. When you pay the bill, it's best to remember that all supplies to the hotel are BROUGHT BY HELICOPTER!
We chose to hike from Grindelwald First because of the kids. It was a shorter hike overall and the staff at the hotel recommended it as the easier way. They told us that if we made the 4-year-old in our group hike from Schynige Platte, he may never walk again! Plus, the lake is a major added bonus. I'm glad we chose that route because everyone was exhausted by the time we arrived. A few extra miles would’ve been tough.
The Accommodations and "Amenities"
The options for staying overnight include a few private rooms and the Matratzenlager, or dormitory. For a big group of 10 like ours, the dormitory was the only option. It's a room with 20+ beds stacked like bunk beds. The Faulhorn describes it as "rustic and adventurous." I couldn't have said it better myself!
We were hoping that we would be alone in the dormitory since we were there on a Sunday night. Much to our surprise and dismay, we realized that it wasn't the case. When we entered, there were 4 older hikers that were hanging their socks and other garments to air out in the dormitory. It smelled like they had been hiking for days without showering (and there is no available shower at this Berghotel either). I wish I could've captured the looks on all of our faces. But nothing could be done-except to go with it!
The hotel has running water, but you can’t drink it. There are a few common toilets and a VERY rustic area for washing-up. I don't know if there is heat, it is very cold there at night and the dormitory was cold too.
We had the basics that we obviously carried in a backpack, so we traveled very light. Our supplies included toothbrushes, change of clothes, sunblock, a small first aid kit, jackets, hats, card games, lunch, snacks, and water. This is not a stay in a luxury Swiss hotel and it isn't glamping. It's a once-in-a-lifetime adventurous opportunity that's hard to describe.
The Faulhorn is not only a hotel. It is also a traditional Swiss restaurant with delicious food. A deck off the main building allows for relaxing in the sun with cold or hot beverages, depending on the weather. The Berghotel is only open in summer, usually starting in late June when the snow has melted enough to make the trails passable. Hikers stop here for a meal on long hikes, even if they aren't staying overnight. The walk up to the restaurant from the hiking trails would have me wishing I'd brought my own sandwich!
For overnight guests, dinner and breakfast are included and they are delicious! The menu is a limited selection (as you can imagine) of traditional Swiss food. Dinner includes a 3-course menu. Our night the options were Alpine pasta with potatoes and bacon, or pork with mashed potatoes. A mountain soup of spring onions and herbs started things off and dessert was a success as well. We were all stuffed when done! That surprised us after all the walking we'd done. Breakfast is self-serve of bread, cheese, and yogurt. Coffee, tea, and hot milk for hot chocolate are available. Everyone loved it.
The true "amenity" of the Faulhorn is the view. Stunning, beautiful, epic-I could search through a thesaurus to try and find the right word and still not succeed. The best way I can describe it is "moving". It's 360 degrees and expansive. It includes the lakes near Interlaken, clouds, and jagged peaks. Some of the clouds look like they are being produced by the mountains. It's as if the whole view is alive and you can't look away. The sunset and sunrise set the whole thing aglow. If we felt like we accomplished something upon our arrival to the hotel, the views sealed the deal. You are quite literally on top of the world.
To get those views, you climb up a short hill behind the dormitory. THERE ARE NO BARRIERS, even right at the edge of the cliff. This was obviously a major concern in a group with 6 kids. We always had an adult making sure a child didn’t unexpectedly leave the dorm unattended. With a lot of close supervision, it’s possible for the kids to enjoy the view too.
The adults slept very little. Between all the bathroom breaks (some of the guys in the dormitory drank A LOT of beer at dinner) and the constant concern that the kids would wake up and fall off the bunk, we felt in a constant state of vigilance. It was totally worth it for the memories, especially for our children. They all slept like babies huddled on the common top bunk. They had such a blast playing card games and telling stories. It was pure joy.
Back to Reality
The weather changed drastically the next day. We woke up above the clouds at the Faulhorn, but knew that we would soon be descending through them.
We chose to go back towards the Bachalpsee but Schynige Platte would've been another option. The descent to the lake felt like a breeze. From there, we chose to follow the signs to Bort (the Grindelwald First midstation). It ended up being a tougher hike than expected. Visibility was poor and the trail was much longer than the posted signage. The downhill was tough on tired legs. But the kids once again persevered (thanks to a distraction of multiple marmots), and we rewarded ourselves with a lovely lunch and time at the playground.
I cannot recommend this experience highly enough! I was so nervous about it all, but in the end it was just a hike and a rustic night's stay. It was never unsafe or impossible, even with kids. Even if you don't stay overnight at a Berghotel, check them out on your hikes. It's a taste of Swiss tradition that can't be recreated elsewhere.
Thanks for reading. Wishing you all a bit of adventure in your lives.
Love,
Steph