Promotional material for the Top of Europe, the Jungfraujoch, is everywhere in Grindelwald. Banners on buses, videos on the local trains, and endless pamphlets feature the Sphinx lookout-the highest in the continent. The massive gondolas carrying visitors up are right outside our door.
Despite this, we had decided we weren't interested. The primary reason was price. It's an expensive endeavor and it just wasn't in our budget. A full-price adult ticket for the gondola is $200+!
I suppose the barrage of advertising worked or Henri's FOMO relapsed. Whatever the reason, we decided to investigate ways to reduce the cost, and we were finally able to check it off our list.
What is the Jungfraujoch?
The Jungfraujoch is an area that saddles two huge glaciers in the Bernese Alps (Aletsch Glacier and the Aletsch-Jungfrau Glacier) and two 4000m peaks (the Monch and the Jungfrau). The entire area is a UNESCO world heritage site and the most glaciated part of the Alps. These are the snow-covered peaks that we admire daily when leaving our apartment and when we are hiking on a clear day.
The train station at the Jungfraujoch is the highest in Europe. The station was completed in 1912 after 16 years of construction and many workers' deaths. The Jungfraubahn arriving from Eigergletscher and Kleine Scheidegg delivers passengers to the historical site-which connects to the modern Top of Europe building. This building is filled with shops, restaurants, and alpine entertainment such as an ice palace. From here, you can ride an elevator to the Sphinx lookout or walk out onto the glacier to play in the snow.
On a side note: In Grindelwald Terminal, there is a presentation about the glacier. It includes photos from as early at 1850. The time lapse photos show how much the glacier has melted. It is so shocking and concerning, but mostly it is a reminder to focus on our environment and its preservation. I'm glad we walk by the pictures with the kids almost every day.
Tickets for Jungfraujoch
Top of Europe is probably the most popular tourist spot in Grindelwald. Hoards of tourists arrive on trains from near and far (especially on clear days) to catch a glimpse of the glacier and to take selfies in the snow. Tickets are obviously necessary, but it can be confusing to figure out how to actually purchase them.
Tickets are available online at the Jungfrau website. Although we usually buy things online at home, we tend to buy from the ticket counters here. It gives us a chance to ask questions of the knowledgeable ticket agents (although Henri does all the communicating in German, the agents are also fluent in English). They have often suggested alternative plans that we wouldn't have otherwise considered. You can buy tickets to the Jungfraujoch from any ticket counter in the entire Jungfrau region.
There are several ways to reduce the price of the ticket. We have a Swiss rail pass which cut the price in half. Children are only ~$25. There are also Jungfrau passes available to those who will visit multiple sites in the region over a few days. These passes include one trip to the Top of Europe. Again, buying the tickets from an agent may help identify ways to reduce cost and optimize your visit.
It's important to know that seat reservations are available on the Jungfraubahn train and should be strongly considered in nice weather and on the weekend. Otherwise, you could be left waiting for an unreserved seat on the train-which only leaves every 30-60 minutes. Also, there are two routes to the Jungfraujoch. Read below so that you can choose the best option for you. They are around the same price, so it really is just personal preference.
Getting to the Jungfraujoch
There are a few ways to actually make it to the top and you'll need to decide before buying your tickets. Talk to a ticket agent if you want to know the pros and cons of each. Here is what I know:
Eiger Express: This is a state-of-the-art tri-cable gondola that just opened in 2019. It leaves from Grindelwald Terminal, which contains both a train, a bus stop AND A LINDT SHOP. We made sure to stock up for the ride. There are also some designer watch shops if that is more your speed.
This gondola is an engineering marvel. The cars are massive. They hold 30+ people but are usually not loaded even close to completely full. We rode with only two other people. The gondola takes you right below the north face of the Eiger and it is absolutely stunning. I don't love heights and this gondola definitely pushed my limits, but I'm glad we did it. The views are just too good to pass up. It arrives at Eigergletscher about 18 minutes later, where the Jungfraubahn leaves for Jungfraujoch. Eigergletscher also houses a traditional Swiss restaurant with a view of the Glacier.
Train to Kleine Scheidegg: A more traditional route would be the train from Grindelwald Grund (right next to Grindelwald Terminal) to Kleine Scheidegg. From there, you can also connect with the Jungfraubahn. This might be a better option for those that aren't thrilled about the gondola. The train navigates steep inclines and also provides a view of the famous north face of the Eiger. Again, you may want to consider seat reservations on the Jungfraubahn if it's nice weather and/or the weekend.
We decided to ride the gondola since we had been on the train to Kleine Scheidegg before. There is little cost difference between the two options. The gondola is also much faster than the train.
Jungfraubahn
We are used to space in Grindelwald, but it doesn't exist on a clear day on the Jungfraubahn. I expected it to be empty based on how quiet the gondola ride was. I'm not even sure how everyone even got to Eigergletscher! But, the Jungfraubahn train was unpleasantly busy. People were pushing to get an unreserved seat. We went on a weekday and I can't imagine a weekend.
Thankfully, we were able to find a seat on the train (but we were separated and not in window seats). I was bummed at first, until I realized that the entire journey is in a tunnel-a tunnel built in 1912! There is a brief pause at a tunnel opening with a view of the snow fields. You can exit the train for a quick restroom break or a picture, then on to Jungfraujoch station. The whole trip was about 25 minutes.
Top of Europe
After more pushing and jostling, we finally landed in the Top of Europe building. Once here, you can follow a well-marked "Tour" through all the features of the Jungfraujoch.
Sphinx Lookout: Quickly, we found ourselves in a long queue for the Sphinx lookout.....a very long queue. One of the elevators was broken and we had the unfortunate luck to end up behind a huge tour group. We waited a long time. It was not a great start to our visit. Adding to the tension was an angry employee yelling and cursing at people waiting for and overfilling the lift! We eventually made it in an uncomfortably packed elevator for the 300 foot! trip up to the Sphinx. When the doors finally opened, all we saw were....CLOUDS!!! We were devastated! The elevator debacle had cost us the view that we payed so much to see...the glacier.
Ok, this wasn't going well, but we were determined to make the most our visit. I said a quick prayer that the weather would break (even just briefly). We ate our picnic lunch in the Sphinx hoping for any change, then gave up and moved on.
Ice Palace: Next on the tour was the Ice Palace. It was phenomenal! Our spirits were instantly lifted. It was so fun to walk through a tunnel made completely of ice. Along the way we saw magnificent ice sculptures and a favorite character from the Ice Age movies.
Snow Fun: Snow Fun=So Fun. We finally made it out onto the glacier. Playing in the snow in June was definitely a highlight. Not all of the snow fun activities were available because of the lack of visibility, but the kids still managed to live it up. We made snow balls, snow angels, and snowmen.
We wanted to the walk to the Monchsjochhutte, a 45 minute walk on the glacier, but the path was closed for safety. So we grabbed some chairs, an alcoholic drink, and broke open our Lindt ball purchase. Despite the bad visibility, it was so relaxing.
A long time ago, before I started on my path to medicine, I was a snowboard bum in Whistler, BC. Sitting on the Jungfrau glacier reminded me so much of that time. I don't know exactly what caused it, but I felt so much like my true self and so carefree. I will cherish that moment.
Tourist Trap: Next, we were on to the rest of the Top of Europe building. It's a complete tourist trap and was also unpleasantly busy. It contains several restaurants and some limited shopping. Just like everywhere else in Switzerland, the restaurants were very expensive. For that reason, we almost always travel with a picnic lunch of sandwiches. Another Lindt store called our names and we listened. It included an interactive chocolate experience that entertained the kids for a while.
We exited through the store (where people were buying chocolate like it didn't exist anywhere else) and immediately saw the most beautiful sight! A blue sky! My prayers were answered, and the weather had cleared!
We raced back to the Sphinx lookout for a view of the glaciers and then back on the glacier to enjoy the views from there. We were so fortunate to see everything that we had hoped for.
Weather: I threw our snow hats and gloves into my bag at the last minute, thinking it was impossible that we would need them. It's June, after all! I am so glad we had them. Despite our warm jackets and snow gear, we were cold! It is very windy and close to freezing. There were very few people dressed for the weather and it limits how much one can enjoy the glacier. We even saw someone walking on the snow in flip flops! I would recommend dressing in layers and bringing as many warm layers as is possible. Also, sunblock and sunglasses are a must. The snow can be completely blinding on the glacier and you can easily get a sunburn more quickly than is typical.
When we woke up that morning, there was not a cloud in the sky. We even changed our initial plans for the day and decided to visit the Jungfraujoch because of the clear weather. We were unpleasantly surprised by a sudden arrival of clouds. The weather in the mountains can change in a moment. If the clouds hadn't broken, we would have been very disappointed. It is an expensive excursion to just look into a sea of white.
It's crucial to choose a day with clear skies to fully enjoy the Jungfraujoch. In the end, though, you can't control the weather, and there are plenty of other activities to enjoy if necessary.
Bottom Line: I'm glad we visited the Jungfraujoch. I think we would've otherwise regretted it or always wondered what we missed. With the discounted tickets and our picnic lunch, the price became tolerable. I admit that I would've been disappointed if we had paid full price, especially if the view hadn't cleared.
While I'm happy we went, this was not my favorite way to view the Jungfrau region. I much more prefer a hike to make me feel like I've earned it. Also, we have very quickly acclimated to the quiet of Grindelwald. It feels jarring to be in crowds of people (Italy should fix that ;). The Top of Europe is busy, one might even say overcrowded. I didn't expect that, and as we all know, happiness is all about expectations.
If it's in your budget and you have a clear day, I say do it! I would absolutely try to go on a weekday and early in the AM if possible. Ask the ticket agent about discounts and available passes. The gondola ride and the historic train add value to the experience.
Plus, I'm now convinced that glacier summer fun while eating Swiss chocolate cures all worries. Add in a Schümli Pflümli and it's a sure thing.
Thanks for reading! All the best to everyone!
Love,
Steph